Marc Jacobs

The muse for this look is an ineffably cool downtown girl who spent the night in her makeup, lending a grungy, insouciant feel to the collection and the face. Be warned — unless you are that girl, it won't translate well to daytime… but it's perfectly suited for a night out on the Lower East Side. Skin remained natural with a tinted moisturizer, eliminating the heavy texture of a thicker foundation. A dusting of loose powder mattifies and evens the skin tone. François Nars, the master behind this look, groomed and darkened brows to embolden, then began the eyes with a nearly imperceptible foundation of a neutral light brown shadow. The lower lash line was defined with the fine touch of a sharpened black liner. The trick to making this look wearable is to not use a black shadow beneath the eyes but rather a dark grey. Nars created the shade by mixing black with white, but a singular almost-black completes the look as well. Brush the color across the entire lower lash line, layering it darkest at the outer corners. Blend the shadow to eliminate harsh lines — the look should be soft and smoky. Clean and shape the effect with a damp q-tip, and finish with lashings of black mascara on both upper and lower lashes. Don't worry about clumping or a spidery effect — imperfection is what makes it.