NYFW Backstage Beauty: Dramatic Eyes
For Derek Lam's show, rock and roll was the rule. Orlando Pita, who created the rough, nonchalant bouffants, described Lam's "sixties-era, college coed muse" as being "a little naughty—she likes to break the rules a bit." Estée Lauder creative makeup director Tom Pecheux said of the muse, "She has a twisted mind." A mix of rose and bronze pigments was applied below the apples of the cheeks to contour, but the focus is on the eyes, with natural skin and nude lips patted to matte with white powder. To create the sexy, slept-in smoky eyes, Pecheux swept a sheer, neutral burgundy wash all over lids to the brow bone, then concentrated a black shadow into the outer corners which he pulled outward to extend past the eye as well as blended into the crease of the lid. He used black mascara on top lashes and a lighter brown on the bottom for an eye-opening effect. For the show, makeup artists channeled Twiggy and drew lashes onto the skin below the lower eyelid — not recommended for everyday wear, but if you're particularly daring, or a nightlife bon vivant, go for it. For a similar shadowy result without the individual strokes, smudge a neutral brown shadow around the lower lash line. For a brighter look, add a well-blended touch of shimmery champagne shadow at the inner corners.