I remain largely unimpressed by the phenom that is the celebrity perfume. I’ve yet to smell one that appeals to me personally, and when it comes to exploring the seemingly limitless olfactory outer regions, they rarely go beyond your standard, perfectly palatable to 12-year-olds, cloying floral. Many designer perfumes, on the other hand, tend to titillate the senses in the way that a great fragrance should. Coco Chanel herself set the standard with No. 5, and more contemporary blends from Issey Miyake, Costume National, Narciso Rodriguez and Viktor & Rolf all manage to continue the heritage by lending their more complex design sensibilities to create intricate, alluring scents that will stick around as timeless classics far after Paris Hilton is no longer a tabloid staple.
Margiela, this better be good.Although the house of Maison Martin Margiela has been churning out beautifully made, avant-garde collections for over 20 years, the notoriously reticent designer himself has shied away from the kind of attention-getting a fashion line receives when it dips a toe into the more-accessible-to-the-masses beauty world. Only now that the man himself has stepped away from his eponymous line has L’Oreal scooped up the brand and developed a fragrance to match. Considering Margiela’s highly revered perch in the fashion ranks, I expect the company will do its best to stay true to its soul. (Like the designer’s blank labels, the scent will simply be called “Untitled.”) And of course, notes of sweet bubblegum and “crisp” appletini simply won’t do.
That said, we’ll have to wait to get a whiff. Colette in Paris gets first dibs with a preview later next week, and it won’t hit our shores until this spring in April. Perfumer Daniela Andrier describes it as “floral, woody, and very green (including notes of fern) as well as ambery and oriental.” Sounds good, so far. [The Independent]