Designers To Watch During London Fashion Week
When people think about the world’s fashion capitals, New York, Paris, and Milan are the cities that come to mind. But there are fashion weeks in a ton of other cities: Madrid, Mumbai, Sydney, and Beijing, to name but a few. London Fashion Week, which is happening across the pond right now, has become a must for fashion editors, buyers, and stylists. Here’s a primer on the hottest designers showing at this season’s LFW. Luella
Luella has been around since 2000, and designer Luella Bartley actually showed her collections in New York until 2007, when she came home to London. Every hot young celeb out there — from Camilla Belle and Kelly Osbourne to Cameron Diaz and Chloe Sevigny — has been seen in something by Luella. Bartley was the first Target GO International designer, and we always agree with Target’s taste in fashion designers. (Well, almost always, anyway.)
Designer Michael Herz worked with top designers Marc Jacobs and Alber Elbaz before coming to Aquascutum to head the womenswear division. The brand, which has been around for 155 years, is known for its trench and raincoats, but Herz’s collection, which does include a lot of coats, is charged with electric blues and pretty dresses, too.
Although he’s Australian, Josh Goot is showing at LFW. His line started as mostly jersey separates that are sexy — and not Forever 21-esque at all. We like his clothes because they make us look like we’re not trying hard to look good.
Alice Temperley launched Temperley London in 2000. Since then, the company has expanded to include several different labels, including a line of accessories, a higher-end “Black Label,” and a bridal collection. Despite some whimsical, girly dresses with ruffles, Temperley’s designs are generally edgier, perfect for Sarah Jessica Parker, Natalie Portman, Naomi Watts, and Halle Berry.
Charles Anastase started his career as an illustrator and created an ad campaign for Calvin Klein in 2004. His clothes include tons of detailing and expert tailoring. Anastase likes to evoke 19th century Victorian images in his collections, so it’s no surprise Keira Knightley is a fan.
House of Holland
Designer Henry Holland is model-of-the-moment Agyness Deyn’s BFF. He used to be a teen magazine editor; that is, until he started House of Holland in 2006. Holland really blew up when he did a bunch of T-shirts with funny sayings on them relating to people in fashion, i.e., “Flick Yer Bean for Agyness Deyn” and “Get Yer Freak on Giles Deacon.” But House of Holland is more than printed T-shirts — for Fall 2008, he did a knock-out purple plaid pleated and tiered dress.
PPQ was one of the fashion labels behind the skinny “drainpipe” jean revolution and is the uniform of London cool kids like Peaches Geldof and Lily Allen. PPQ also runs 1234 Records, featuring artists like Whitey, The Bishops, and Trafalgar, all which doubles this brand’s cool factor.
Sort of like the CFDA Fashion Awards in the U.S., the British Fashion Council’s New Gen helps emerging fashion designers. Sponsored by Topshop, recipients of New Gen sponsorship receive a chunk of money and free usage of a venue for their fashion show and a sponsorship that typically lasts three seasons. You should pay attention to this year’s New Gen winners because Alexander McQueen, Clements Ribeiro, Matthew Williamson, Julien Macdonald and Sophia Kokosalaki are past winners. This year, Danielle Scutt, House of Holland, MeadhamKirchhoff, Peter Pilotto, and Louise Goldin are showing ready to wear collections on the catwalk.